Neighbourhoods, the Docklands and the Changing City
Dublin has changed more rapidly in the past thirty years than at any previous point in its history, and the physical evidence is most visible in the Silicon Docks of the Grand Canal and Docklands quarter, where the European headquarters of the world's largest technology companies occupy buildings that were warehouses and docks within living memory. The contrast between this district and the Georgian terraces of Merrion and Fitzwilliam Squares to the south, where the 18th-century townhouse fabric is the most intact in any European city outside London, is representative of a city that holds its layers with remarkable density in a relatively small area. The Liberties, Dublin's oldest working-class neighbourhood west of the city center, has a brewing and distilling history extending back over three centuries and is now home to a cluster of craft distilleries and the Guinness Storehouse, the most visited paid attraction in Ireland, which tells the history of a stout that has been brewed on the same site since 1759. The Portobello and Rathmines districts to the south carry an independent retail and restaurant culture that has grown around the canal banks and Victorian terraces. The covered food market at George's Street Arcade, operating since 1881, sustains a mix of independent traders, food stalls, and vintage clothing vendors that reflects a commercial character more durable than any planned development. Dublin Bay, accessible by DART train to the northern and southern suburbs, offers beaches, swimming, and the Victorian bathing places at Forty Foot in Sandycove that continue year-round regardless of temperature. The city's coastal suburbs, reachable by DART in under thirty minutes from the center, offer a completely different Dublin of Victorian seaside towns, cliff walks, and harbour swimming that is used year-round by residents with a commitment to the sea that the city's inland reputation does not prepare visitors for.