Heuriger Wine Culture and the Vienna Woods
Vienna's wine culture is immediate and local in a way that few capital cities can claim: the city boundaries contain active vineyards producing Grüner Veltliner and Riesling of genuine quality from slopes in Grinzing, Nussdorf, and Stammersdorf that have been under vines since Roman times. The Heuriger, the wine tavern whose licence to serve the current year's harvest was codified in an 18th-century imperial decree, operates as the most specifically Viennese form of hospitality: wooden benches in a courtyard or garden, cold buffet food, and the wine made on the same property served in a ceramic jug without ceremony. The Viennese treat the Heuriger as a social institution for which taking the tram to the city's vineyard villages on a warm evening is as natural as any other social engagement. The Vienna Woods (Wienerwald), the forested hills that frame the city to the west and southwest, are a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and provide hiking and cycling accessible by public transport within forty minutes of the center. Klosterneuburg, an Augustinian monastery and palace complex on the Danube north of the city, and the Kahlenberg ridge above the vineyard villages, both offer views across Vienna that clarify the city's relationship with the Danube basin and the surrounding landscape. The Wiener Prater, the former imperial hunting ground that now contains the Wurstelprater amusement park with its 1897 Giant Ferris Wheel, and kilometres of chestnut-lined promenade (Hauptallee) used for jogging, cycling, and horse riding, is the most democratic of the city's large green spaces. The Naschmarkt on a Saturday morning, when the flea market that extends the regular food market into second-hand goods, vintage clothing, and antiques occupies the full length of the former Wienzeile riverbed, is one of the most satisfying urban market experiences in Central Europe. The city's outer districts, accessible by U-Bahn and tram and each with a distinct character rooted in their pre-annexation independence as separate villages or market towns, reward exploration beyond the Ring: Ottakring for its wine taverns and multicultural character, Margareten for its independent restaurants, and Floridsdorf across the Danube for the Heuriger vineyards that produce wine consumed almost entirely on the premises. The Prater's Wurstelprater amusement park, home to the 1897 Riesenrad giant Ferris wheel that appeared in the 1949 film The Third Man, remains a working fairground of genuine historical character and popular local use.