Piazzas, Fountains and the Street Life of Rome
Rome functions as a city of outdoor rooms, and the piazzas that punctuate its dense fabric are as important to daily life as any building or monument. The Piazza Navona, constructed on the footprint of a Roman stadium, is the most theatrical of the baroque public spaces, its three fountains arranged along the long axis of what was once a chariot racing track. The Campo de' Fiori, a daily produce and flower market in the morning that becomes one of the city's most animated outdoor bars in the evening, demonstrates the Roman capacity to hold entirely different social functions within a single physical space at different hours. The Pigneto neighbourhood in the east and the Trastevere across the river each carry a distinct social identity built around independent bars, local restaurants, and street life that operates at a human scale missing from the more visited parts of the historic center. The aperitivo hour, observed with seriousness from around six in the evening, involves Aperol or Campari spritz served with a small selection of food in a ritual that is as much about pausing the day as about drinking. The Janiculum hill above Trastevere offers the most complete panoramic view of the city available from ground level, and the cannon fired there each day at noon has been an unbroken Roman civic ritual since 1847. The city's relationship with its own past is expressed not in reverence but in the casual coexistence of ancient, baroque, and modern that characterises every street in the historic center. The Apertura Straordinaria program, which opens the state rooms of private palaces, convent gardens, and archaeological sites not normally accessible to the public, runs across several weekends each year and gives access to a layer of the city that even frequent visitors rarely reach.