Tlaquepaque, Tonalá and the Craft Traditions Around Guadalajara
The municipalities of Tlaquepaque and Tonalá, incorporated within the greater Guadalajara metropolitan area, are the most important craft production and retail centers in Mexico after Mexico City. Tlaquepaque's historic center, with its cobblestone pedestrian streets lined with galleries, craft boutiques, and restaurants in colonial buildings, specialises in blown glass, hand-painted Talavera-style ceramics, and furniture and has been the primary destination for decorative arts buyers from across North America since the 1970s. Tonalá, a few kilometres further east and the wholesale production center, concentrates the workshops and factories whose output supplies Tlaquepaque's retail, Mexico City's markets, and export buyers, with specialities in papier-mâché, blown glass, and hammered copperwork. The Thursday and Sunday street market in Tonalá is one of the largest craft markets in Mexico by vendor count and the most direct access to the production economy. The Hospicio Cabañas in central Guadalajara, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest colonial building in the Americas, houses the José Clemente Orozco mural cycle in its Tolsá Chapel — a program of frescoes that are among the finest works of 20th-century Mexican muralism and the most important single artistic achievement in the city. The Guadalajara International Book Fair (FIL), held each November and December at the Expo Guadalajara convention center, is the largest book fair in the Spanish-speaking world and the second-largest in the world by attendance after Frankfurt, drawing over 800,000 visitors and serving as the primary meeting point for publishers, authors, and booksellers from Latin America, Spain, and the international Spanish-language market. The Teatro Degollado on Plaza de la Liberación, a neoclassical opera house completed in 1866 and modelled in part on La Scala in Milan, is the home of the Guadalajara Philharmonic Orchestra and the most architecturally distinguished performing arts venue in western Mexico. The Mercado Libertad (San Juan de Dios), the largest traditional covered market in Latin America and a three-storey complex of food stalls, craft vendors, and bootleg goods, is the most democratic commercial institution in Guadalajara and the best single location for encountering the full range of Jalisco food culture from birria to tortas ahogadas under one roof.