Markets, Craft Traditions and the City's Living Heritage
Mexico City's market culture is one of the most complex and deeply rooted in the Americas, operating at every scale from the national wholesale markets that supply the country's food economy to the neighbourhood tianguis that appear on specific days of the week in the streets of each district. La Merced, the largest traditional market in the city, covers several city blocks of covered stalls selling ingredients, prepared food, household goods, and medicinal plants in a volume and variety that is difficult to comprehend without seeing it. The craft traditions of the city's surrounding states flow into its markets: Oaxacan textiles, Talavera ceramics from Puebla, lacquerwork from Michoacán, and silver from Taxco all find their most concentrated urban representation in Mexico City's market and gallery network. The Fonart stores, operated by a government agency supporting indigenous and traditional crafts, offer a navigable introduction to the breadth of Mexican craft production across the country. The city's relationship with its pre-Columbian, colonial, and modern heritage is not merely archival: the traditions of food preparation, craft production, and public ritual that were practised before the arrival of Spanish forces have been maintained in modified forms through five centuries of change, and the city's cultural life is inseparable from that continuity. The Xochimilco floating gardens to the south of the city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are the last surviving remnant of the network of chinampas (raised agricultural islands) that covered the lake system on which Tenochtitlan was built. Hiring a trajinera boat to travel the canals on a weekend, among the families and groups picnicking on the water while mariachi boats pull alongside, is one of the most specifically Mexico City experiences available. The National Museum of Anthropology in Chapultepec is not simply the best museum in Mexico but one of the outstanding museum experiences in the world, and its coverage of Mesoamerican civilisations from the Olmec through the Aztec in rooms whose scale matches the ambition of the cultures represented deserves a full day and rewards a second visit. The city's position at 2,240 metres above sea level gives it a climate and light quite unlike any other major Latin American capital, with cool nights even in summer and air that clarifies the volcanic mountains on the city's horizon.